Storing Your Comics: Bags & Boards & Boxes….Oh, My!!

Comic-Mylar

Some collectors have a lot of angst about storing their comics.  What are the right bags and boards to buy?   What about boxes?  You’ve heard about Mylar, do you really need to use it to keep your comics collection from disintegrating before your eyes?  Let’s look at these topics in way more detail than non-collectors would ever care about…

Comic Bags
There is not doubt that mylar is the best material for archival storage of paper collectibles.  The Library of Congress uses it, and they know a thing or two about preserving paper products.  That said, mylar is more expensive and is not absolutely necessary for what I’d consider “run of the mill” comics.

The 3 most common materials for bags are mylar, polyethylene, and polypropylene, let’s get technical for a moment:

Mylar: A biaxially extruded polyester film that is simultaneously stretched in two directions to give it maximum strength.  Resistance to diffusion of gases like oxygen, carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, etc. is 350 times greater than polyethylene.  Resistance to moisture, insect attack, fungus, mold, mildew, acid, oils, grease, and solvents is excellent.  Mylar is the Cadillac of storage bags.

Polyethylene: A polymerized ethylene resin that is inert, translucent and creates a lower static charge than polypropylene. The translucent nature of polyethylene prohibits a  greater amount of light penetration than the transparent polypropylene.  The lower static charge produced by polyethylene as opposed to the higher charge emitted by polypropylene means that polyethylene will attract much less dirt, dust and other foreign, organic elements.  Polyethylene is more flexible than polypropylene.

Polypropylene: Propylene (CH3CH:CH2) is a sub-stratum of ethylene.  Polypropylene is a thermoplastic resin that is a polymer of propylene and is more rigid than polyethylene. Due to its rigidity, polypropylene sleeves are more prone to tearing, especially at the seams.

So, what do you need to use?   If you have a very valuable comic (worth $30 – $50 or more), I’d suggest using Mylar.  For regular comics, I’d recommend polyethylene.

Here is what E. Gerber has to say about storing comics on their web-site (keeping in mind that they are, after all, in the business of selling mylar bags):

Poly-bags will not destroy your comics. We do not preach fire and brimstone.

They then swiftly move on to saying:

Poly-bags will not actually destroy your comics. They will simply afford a lot less protection against the elements. I would definitely put my “For Sale” comics into poly-bags, but only for a short term, say a couple of months.

This is seriously implying that poly bags are not to be used for anything other than REALLY transitory storage.  This is nonsense.  That said, I’d likely be on board with this philosophy if my business was made up of selling Mylar bags to comics fans who are fearful that putting comics in poly bags is tantamount to wrapping them in a tissue and setting them out in the rain.

bags

Bag Thickness
Generally, thicker bags are better.  When buying mylar, you typically can go from 1 mil thick (called Mylites at E. Gerber and Arklites at Bill Cole) to 1.4 mil thick Mylite+ bags (from E. Gerber) to 2 mil thick (Mylite2 from E. Gerber, Arklites 2 from Bill Cole) or 4 mil thick (Mylite4 or Archives from E. Gerber and Comic-Gards or Time-Loks from Bill Cole).  Personally, I dislike the 1 mil Mylites/Arklites (I’ve bought the 1 mil Arklites).  While the 1 mil thickness is the cheapest Mylar solution, they are very thin and “crinkly” feeling, though they should provide the same chemical protection as thicker Mylar.  Moving up a step, I know people who swear by the 2 mil Mylite2/Arklites2 bags.  Personally, nowadays if I’m going to take the step up to Mylar from poly bags, I go all the way to the 4 mil thick archival bags.  In addition to the Mylar brand name,  Bags Unlimited has “Museum Grade Archival Polyester” in 2 and 4 mil thickness that is compared to Mylar and is a bit cheaper.  I have never personally used or seen these bags and cannot speak to their quality.

Poly bags also come in a variety of thicknesses, with polypropylene typically being thinner (1.2 to 1.5 mil).  The difference in cost between 2 mil polyethylene and thinner polypropylene is a penny or 2 per bag.  Given the published differences between the 2 types of bags, I think 2 mil polyethylene is the “best bet” for general comics storage (even though you can get polyethylene in 3 and 4 mil thickness, if I feel the need to go up to 4 mil, I am going to go to Mylar).  A good place to get poly bags is Bags Unlimited.

Cost
Even the 1 mil thick Mylar bags cost 2-3 times as much as poly bags (wholesale/bulk).  2 mil Mylar bags can run anywhere from 18 to 22 cents each in bulk (PLUS shipping) and that does not include the board.  I don’t like to spend 30-40 cents on a bag/board for a comic that is going to be in a $1 bin in 2 years time (e.g., 80+% of the comics published every month by Marvel & DC).  For my collectible stuff I don’t mind spending 60 cents or so on an archival bag/board for a comic worth $30+, at least there the storage cost is 2% or less of the value of the item being stored.

Bag Width
Be careful, not all bags are made alike.  There are various widths, make sure you buy the right width for the comics you need to store:

7″ (aka Current) – I do not like using this width.  Frequently I find that a thicker annual or giant size comic just won’t fit, or even some indie comics that have slightly wider trims.

7 1/4″ (sometimes called Standard, sometimes Bronze) – A good overall width for most comics from the 1980s onward.

7 3/8″ (This is Bill Cole’s “standard” width) – Fits most comics from mid to late 1960s onward.

7 3/4″ to 7 5/8″ (Silver/Gold) – Good for 1950s onward.

8″ to 8 1/4″ (Super Golden) – Used for comics from the 1940s to early 1950s.

Consider your Environment
Are you someplace with high humidity?  Do you have issues with mold, mildew and fungus in general?  What about insects (especially the kinds that like to chow down on paper products, termites, silverfish, etc.)?  Do you have a lot of these factors in your area and if so, do you take steps to manage them?  There are things that can be done to manage your environment far before you get to the bags you keep your comics in, but the last line of defense if going to be the comic bag.  For instance, I live in Southern California and we don’t have many bugs compared to someplace like Florida (well, most places don’t have a lot of bugs compared to Florida, but you get the idea).  Even so, we are not totally bug-free, and I have a service that comes out monthly and sprays the perimeter of the house and property line to keep bugs out.  I rarely ever see bugs.  Problem (mostly) solved.  If you live in high humidity area, you might consider using some de-humidification and anti-dessicant solutions in the area where you store your comics.

TopLoader

Top Loaders
These are rigid plastic sleeves that you slide a bagged/boarded comic into for additional protection.  These are made of PVC and are not archival (like Mylar).  I don’t see the usefulness of these for general comics in your collection.  People usually bag and board a comic and put it in a box, they’re not tossing it around where they need this kind of extra protection.  They could be useful if you’re shipping a comic in the mail and want the extra protection.  BCW sells some of these with little stands built in that are kind of cool as a cheap alternative to a frame if you want a quick display for some of your comics.

Bottom Line on Bags
Get what feels right for you, taking the knowledge presented here into account.  I like to take the value of a comic into account when determining the cost of the storage materials I use with it.  You are not committing a “crime against comics” in using polyethylene bags.  I have bought a number of back issues in old bags that are very yellowed and deteriorated (and have replaced those with new polyethylene bags).  I believe those are mostly comics that  have been stored in harsher environmental conditions than I have.

Poly Bags 1989

I personally have comics that have been in poly bags in my collection since the late 1980s (when I did a large-scale re-bagging effort, apparently not even using backing boards at that point in time).  Above is a picture of a couple of comics in poly bags (I believe  polypropylene) that have been in a comic box in my garage (stored upright in a low humidity environment) since late 1989. I see no particular degradation of the bags other than a bit of “wavyness”, the comics inside are not degraded or damaged in any way. I believe that replacing poly bags ever 2-5 years is not necessary, but is encouraged by those that have a vested interest in selling collectors bags or up-selling collectors on Mylar.

Bob’s Recommendation:
Valuable comics –> 4 mil Mylar
Everything else –> 2 mil Polyethylene bags

An aside on taping your bags:  Some people like to tuck the flap in and don’t use tape, fearing that it will snag a comic when taking it in/out of the bag.  I use tape, I like keeping that flap securely in place.  If I am going to remove a comic from the bag I remove the tape COMPLETELY from the bag, I do not leave it hanging onto the flap where the possibility exists that it could snag on your comic.

A brief note on slabbing: The ultimate in protecting a comic is, of course, to get it “slabbed” by Comics Guaranty, LLC.  The comic has MicroChamber paper inserted inside the front and back covers, is sealed in Mylar, and then encapsulated in a hard-plastic shell (also called a “slab”).  The downside that the slab cannot be opened without breaking it and you’ll never be able to open and read your comic again unless you want to “crack the slab” and then you’ll need to pay a lot of money to have the comic be re-graded & re-slabbed if you want it back in the slab.  Compare this to using archival Mylar where you take off the tape, place it safely to the side, remove your comic from the sleeve, read it, and then return it to the sleeve and re-tape it.

Backing Boards & MicroChamber paper

boards

Backing boards and MicroChamber paper are used in conjunction with your bags of choice to enhance the preservation of your comic.  The primary purpose of a backing board is to add some stiffness to your comic book storage and prevent unintended bending or creasing of your comics.  Beyond that, you really want to use a board that will not contribute to the deterioration of your comic (since it’s going to be sealed inside a bag with your comic).  That’s why you don’t want to use just any cardboard (which can be highly acidic), buy boards specifically created for comic storage.  For added protection, you can also place sheets of micro-chamber paper in your comic that are designed to remove and neutralize acids as well as trap pollutants.  CGC places a sheet of this inside the front & back cover of any comic they encapsulate in one of their “slabs”.

As with bags where you have Mylar and poly(ethylene/propylene), for backing boards you have 2 basic varieties:

Basic Boards: Typically .24 mil thick these are usually shiny on one side and a matte finish on the other.  The shiny side is coated with a very thin 3% calcium carbonate buffer and should be the side that is placed next to the comic book.

Acid-Free Boards: The “Mylar” of boards.  These are pH neutral cellulose fiber and are buffered throughout with 3% calcium carbonate.  There is no “shiny side”, either side can be placed next to the comic.  These typically cost 2.5x and up what standard backing boards cost.  They come in 24 mil and 42 mil thickness (depending on the stiffness you want).  Keep in mind that thicker boards take up some extra room in the bag and may make the fit for your comic very snug so it does not go in and out of the bag easily.   E. Gerber calls these Half-Backs and Full-Backs.  Bill Cole calls them Thin-X-Tenders and Time-X-Tenders.  Bags Unlimited calls them Standard Acid-Free and Super Acid-Free.

MicroChamber Paper: Very thin paper specially constructed with dispersed molecular traps that remove and neutralize acids, pollutants and the harmful by-products of deterioration.  This paper also eliminates odors such as smoke, mold and mildew.  Place a sheet inside the front & back cover of a valuable comic before bag/boarding it.  This can be purchased from BagsUnlimited and Bill Cole (who calls it Life-X-Tender Plus).

Bob’s Recommendation:
*
Use basic boards with poly bags
* Use acid-free boards with Mylar
* Use MicroChamber paper with exceptionally valuable comics (particularly old comics printed on lower quality acidic paper).

Boxes

IMG_4404

So you have a bunch of bagged & boarded comics, now where are you going to keep them?  Almost every collector has seen one of the white comic book storage boxes at some point, but there are more categories to choose from than you might think.

Standard Comic Boxes: These can be bought in almost any comic book store and come in different lengths & widths:

  • Short boxes hold 150-200 comics (depending on bag/board thickness and thickness of the comics).  These are ~15″ long and weigh about 30 pounds when full and most collectors find them fairly easy to move around.
  • Long boxes hold 250-300 comics (depending on bag/board thickness and thickness of the comics).   These are ~27″ long and weigh in excess of 50 pounds when full.  Many collectors find these fairly cumbersome to move around.

Magazine boxes: Similar to short boxes, but 9″ wide and slightly taller so they can accommodate wider magazines and wider format graphic albums.  These are also useful for certain newer comics that come out in the wider “Golden Age” format (27 and Cowboy Ninja Viking from Image come to mind, as well as the current “Life with Archie” series.  Many comic shops do not carry this size.

Graded Comic Storage Boxes: These are larger sized and made to accommodate books in CGC or PGX slabs.  Sold by E. Gerber and Bill Cole.

Acid Free Storage Boxes: These are typically used by people storing comics bagged in Mylar, but seem a bit like like overkill, they’re VERY expensive.  E. Gerber and Bill Cole have these in acid-free buffered cardboard.  You can also get these made from corrugated plastic from BagsUnlimited.

DrawerBoxes

Drawer Boxes: Standard short and long boxes are not meant to be stacked up more than 2 or 3 high.  The sheer weight of the comics will cause the bottom boxes to start crushing.  To get around this and allow stacking various companies have developed boxes that fit into an outer shell that allows the comic box to be slid out like a drawer from any position in the stack while the outer shell supports the weight of the boxes in the rows above.  The stack of 5 short boxes pictured above has no problem sliding out the bottom drawer.  I know someone who has long drawer boxes stacked 6 high and also has no problem with the bottom drawers.

  • Manufacturer: The premiere manufacturer seems to be the Collection Drawer Co.  I have these myself (see above) and they work great.  These are the ones I have personal experience with and they are great.  I like to use the Box Lox with these, that are small plastic fasteners that hold multiple DrawerBoxes together, top to bottom and side to side, providing a lot of extra stability to the entire block of boxes you’re using.
    BagsUnlimited sells Comic File Cabinet shells that you slide an existing short or long box into.  I’m not so sure about these, I’ve had people tell me they don’t hold up as well as the ones from Collection Drawer, but I have no personal experience with them.  If you’ve tried these and have positive or negative feedback, drop me a note.
  • Short or Long? As with standard comic boxes you can get these in short and long.  Personally, I don’t want to make a “fashion statement” out of the boxes so like them in a closet so I can close the doors and hide them away when desired.  The Collection Drawer Co. long boxes won’t fit in my closet so I had to go with the short boxes.
  • Cautionary Note: I would recommend being careful about placing these directly on the floor if they are in a location that could conceivably get some water on the floor (1st floor, basement, etc.)  Build up a platform of some sort to keep the bottom row at least an inch or two off the ground.

Stor-Folio2

Storage Folios
BCW sells a really cool item called a Comic Book Stor-Folio.  This re-enforced case holds up to 15 bagged and boarded comic books,or up to 20 loose comic books. It can be shelved in a book case or carried in your backpack to safely transport your comics to your favorite comic book convention.  I have been using one of these to carry books to conventions for years.  Before the con I load it with comics that I want to have autographed or blank sketch cover comics that I plan to have worked on at the con.  I always have someone comment about how cool this is when they see me pull it out of my backpack at a con.

Bob’s Recommendation:
*
I love Drawer Boxes and would have more of them had I not filled 250 or so regular Long Boxes before they were invented.  If I was starting out today I’d have more of my collection in these.
* Regular short & long boxes are perfectly fine for most collections.

I think that’s all I’ve got for now…

If you found this to be informative, drop me an e-mail or leave a comment below.  Same thing if you have any questions or think I missed something.  I’m always up for amending/adding to make reference material more complete.  This Blog entry will eventually end up as a page on the ComicSpectrum web-site.

Bob Bretall: bob@comicspectrum.com
https://comicspectrum.com/ Covering the full spectrum of comics culture

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17 Responses to Storing Your Comics: Bags & Boards & Boxes….Oh, My!!

  1. Andrew says:

    Love this post. As an aside, I really recommend short boxes if you have a tricky back. I fully loaded long box is way to heavy. I slightly screwed up my back on a drawer box.

  2. kevynknox says:

    Great take on the whole subject. I just got back into collecting after almost two decades out of the game. I think I’m going to set everything up in bronze or silver age bags. I really like the idea of the drawer boxes too.

  3. Gerry McDade says:

    Great post, Bob! Very informative!

  4. Brett says:

    Drawer boxes are great. All but 20 long boxes of my collection are in them.

  5. Jason says:

    awesome awesome awesome post Bob. I had no clue that there was a product out there to get rid of that old comic funk that sometimes happens when older books soak up scents. Thanks a ton for posting!

  6. loudlysilent says:

    I put baking soda boxes around my short boxes, and sometimes I’ll even put a baking soda box *in* the short box if there’s room. Any other humidity-related and odors-related tips for the extremely paranoid, besides the obvious storing boxes somewhere dry and far from odors?

    • Baking soda is a good idea for odor. Other than the silica gel suggestion, I’ve not done anything else related to humidity, but it’s not a big problem where I live so I’ve never really had to confront it personally.

    • Jason says:

      A couple friends of mine that store their comic collections in their basements use dehumidifiers to keep the books from getting damaged by moisture.

  7. Jason Keith says:

    I started finding all these articles about bagging and boards because after a 15-year break I recently got back into collecting. I ran into a problem that my one side coated BCW boards are glossy and smooth on both sides so I don’t know which side to use! I’m still not sure which to use.

    Anyway, this the first reasonable article on storing I’ve seen. Some people out there are nuts about the hoops they go through. I stored most of my comics in the same box, in the same poly bag, with the same backboard (and I’ve never taped a bag closed) for more than 20 years, and they look just like the day I bought them. I even had some CGC graded and they came out 9.6-9.8. Changing a poly bag every few months is insanity.

    I believe environment plays the biggest role. A cool dry space halts decomposition and breakdown of materials (kinda how shipwrecks in colder water preserve really well). If you live in Michigan and store your comics in a garage the extreme temperatures are going to kill them (or humid, buggy Florida).

    Since my return to comic collecting I do use Mylar even for cheap comics because I just love the way they look much more, and I collect for my personal satisfaction not monetary investment. Since I only collect three titles it’s not a huge expense for me and I keep mine for decades.

    Great article.

    • Do you use full on archival mylars for “cheap comics” or the much thinner mylites?
      I guess it also depends on how many comics you collect. Getting a handful each month, not a problem, I add several hundred to my collection every month, so mylar would be a burdensome expense.

      • JP says:

        Yeah I assumed you have a lot of titles. I don’t think there’s a lot worth reading out there. I can’t imagine adding a dozen to my collection every month, never mind several hundred! But to each their own!

        I quit collecting after the Spider-man clone fiasco in the early 90s. I was already getting irritated with a lot of aspects of the industry and that was the last straw. I did keep collecting Spawn for a long time but that was it. When I got back into collecting a few years ago I set down rules for myself, and I’m much more satisfied.

        I started experimenting with mylar just a few months ago. I tried the standard 4 mil and 2 mil from BCW. I prefer the 2 mil so that’s what I’m using. But only for what I call my “new” collection, which after three years encompasses one and a half short boxes. A 50 count mylar bag will last me more than a year. I have quite a few new comics because I was trying out different titles, but those are all stored with standard bags and boards until I can trade or sell them.

        That goes for my “old” collection as well. It’s about 1,500 comics which I whittled down from 4,500 through trade and sales over that last couple years. Most of those I’m going to keep and I replaced the old bag and boards with standard poly and BCW boards. Most of them are from the late 70s to early 90s, so that would be a little nuts mylar them!

        I was pretty proud of my collection though it’s small compared to a lot of collectors. I started when I was 14 years old in ’85, and amassed most that 4,500 in a four year period before I turned 18 and joined the military. Even though my income went up, being overseas a lot back then made it hard to buy consistently. Then the Spidy thing happened and I nerd raged for 20 years.

      • If you don’t think there’s a lot worth reading you may just not be looking in the right places.
        Super-heroes may be something you got tired (I notice you mention the Spider-Man clone saga & Spawn) of but there are a LOT of other comics with such a wide range of styles & genres that there really is something for every taste. What apparently drove you away just drove me to find other comics that I did like. And I found a LOT.
        Check out what I’m reading here:
        https://comicspectrum.com/Bobs_Pull_List.html

      • JP says:

        Wow. That’s a lot of stuff. I could never read all that. My pull list used to have six comics on it (which is the max allowed by rule number one), five of which were written by Kelly Sue. I have two young kids (8 and 9) who are fascinated by my bagging and boxing process and are interested in collecting, so a couple weeks ago I dropped two titles and let them each pick one to add to my list, and we have a comic reading night. So right now my pull list is:
        – Amazing Spider-man
        – Batman (First DC Comic I’ve ever bought!)
        – Batman Lil Gotham
        – My Little Pony Friendships is Magic
        – Pretty Deadly
        – Spawn.
        I used to get Red Team also, but it was just a limited series which irritates me. My daughter wanted Deadpool, but I wouldn’t let her. She loves Deadpool from the Lego Marvel game. And she loves to draw, so my house is full of drawings of Hello Kitty and Deadpool. She also created a Deadpool version of Hello Kitty which she calls “Hello Kitty of Doom.” I’m both proud and terrified.

        My favorite comic when I started collecting again was Bad Medicine by Oni Press which got cancelled after five months. Two LCS told me they never sold a single copy. And that’s in Portland, the home of Oni Press. Guess I was the only one who liked it. Haha. I just dropped Ghost because Kelly Sue doesn’t write it anymore and the new guy sucks (rule number two – drop a title like a hot potato if it starts to suck). Also just dropped Capt Marvel which I think it great but someone had to be sacrificed for a kid selection. There are a few titles I think are great that I don’t collect the individual issues, but get the TPB: Captain Marvel; Chew; Hawkeye; Stumptown; The Boys; and Thief of Thieves. Pretty much anything written by Garth Ennis or Kelly Sue gets read by me in some form.

        Your list has a lot of limited series on it. I’ve never really counted those as a “titles.” If I hear one is good I’ll wait for the TPB. I pretty much write them off until then. Some of them were just too far into the series to try and I wanted to start something from the ground floor, or at least not too deep into the series. Anytime I try a comic I have to like it enough to remove something else from my pull list. That’s a rule. There’s some from your list I tried:

        – BATMAN 66: Too much like the TV show which even as a kid I didn’t like. I know that’s the point.
        – AVENGERS ANY TITLE: Everyone is a damn avenger of X-Man now. I used to get Avengers Assemble, Bendis and Kelly Sue are great, but she started featuring Spider-woman and some other Spider-girl too much, so I dropped it. Uncanny Avengers and regular Avengers were good just not compelling enough to make my list.) Feel the same way about some X titles. Cable and the X-Force was good but just not good enough.
        – AMAZING SPIDER-MAN: I can’t stay away, and it’s been a pleasant surprise so far.
        – BLACK WIDOW: Wanted to like it, but it’s meh.
        – DAREDEVIL: First comic I tried when I came back and tried to avoid Spidy. Wasn’t as good as I heard. Gave it 15 issues before dropping it.
        – LOW: Just read #1 last night. Didn’t find any character compelling. Liked the story idea though.
        – SAGA: Hate this. Everything about it. I’m confused by all the love it gets.
        – SEX CRIMINALS: Read the first one. Interesting concept, but didn’t grab me hard enough to keep going.
        – WALKING DEAD: Hate the art. Black and white is a hard medium to work in, and all the artists have failed IMO.
        – RACHEL RISING: Haven’t read this, but it looks interesting. Definitely a TPB list. If I see one on sale. Yay Labor Day sales!
        – ARCHER & ARMSTRONG: Read the first two issues. Hated it. I’m not a religious guy, but the first two issues were obsessed with religion bashing – Christian specifically. It was over the top and ruined what I thought should have been a good story.
        HARBINGER: Liked the first version of this. Something is missing in this reincarnation for me.
        X-O MANOWAR: Story wasn’t compelling enough. I didn’t get it.

        Ha. Sorry my replies are so long. I rarely talk about comics.

  8. At least you’re trying lots of things, which is good!
    A lot of this stuff is really subjective. You note how you can’t see how people love Saga and that’s a great example. My favorite title out of 150 or so, and you just don’t get it. Same book, though :-)
    Some people will like something and others will hate it. Does not make it intrinsically good or bad, just something that is to one person’s taste and not another’s.
    I have a very wide range of tastes and love different art styles.
    Walking dead is another favorite of mine, I really like Charlie Adlard’s art (I own 2 pages of his Original Art from WD). Interesting that you say “all the artists have failed”. Adlard has been the artist on every issue from #7 to #114. Tony Moore did #1-6.

  9. JP says:

    Oh I forgot about Wormwood. Love Wormwood. Wish it was an ongoing series. I have a love-hate relationship with Templesmith’s art.

  10. JP says:

    Yeah, I know people like Adlard. Just black and white… ugh. So hard for me to find black and white art I like. If Walking Dead had been color I’d been all over it.

    It’s interesting to me what speaks to one person and not another. I took a class that focused on Ursula Le Guin books. I hated them. I was shocked at how bad the were. Fortunately I wasn’t alone. But people love her. She’s won crazy awards. One of my all time favorite movies is Shakespeare in Love. But I also really like Roadhouse, so I’m in no position to talk smack about what other people like or dislike.

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